The city of Pau, in the south west of France possesses an abundance of historical charm just waiting to be discovered. Memories from Medieval times, revisiting the Renaissance, or remembering the role of the Romantics are just a few of the many riches you will encounter whilst exploring this culturally diverse city.
An obvious place to start your historical tour of Pau is the local tourism office (Office de Tourisme, 2 Rue Henri IV) where you will find numerous guides and leaflets (in English, Spanish, German, as well as French) outlining suggested walks and routes through the city. The tourism office itself has its own little piece of history. It was initially a hotel, constructed in the 18th century, and was the final resting place of Lord Selkirk of Canada.
"The Three Kingdoms" guide, found within the "History and Heritage" leaflet (Office de Tourisme), is undoubtedly the best way to ascertain Pau's rich past. Starting from Henri IV Street (Rue Henri IV), the guide leads you through an assortment of inspiring locations, including Bernadotte Museum, the Money Tower, and of course, the birthplace of Henri IV, King of France and Navarre - Pau Castle. There are twelve stages detailed within "The Three Kingdoms" guide, geographically assembled in a convenient way for tourists. Here is a summary of what to expect from those twelve areas.
1. The Tourism Office is the first port of call. Grab as many guides and free information as you can before setting out for a great day of history and culture.
2. Rue Henri IV is actually the same street as the Tourism Office, but after walking just a few strides you will see the subtle transformations from 16th, 17th and 18th century architecture. Notice the sculpted pillars and iron-wrought balconies, as well as the terracotta cobbles indicative of a Pyrenees building exterior.
3. The Parliament of Navarre was founded around 1620 after Louis XIII signed the Edict of Union of Bearn and France. The Parliament adopted the former Law Courts as its meeting place; a building originally erected in 1585, re-built after fire damage in 1716, and eventually vacated in 1856 when new premises where found. The original Law Courts have now been renovated and are home to the Pyrenees-Atlantiques General Council.
4. Pau Castle is the centre-piece of Pau's decorated history, being the birthplace of Henri IV, King of France and Navarre. From the Empress's Chambers to the Renaissance Gardens, you will find nine centuries of memories within, and surrounding its walls. The Castle features one of the largest tapestry collections outside of Paris, numerous, exquisite pieces of furniture and the tortoise shell which was used as a cradle for Henri IV. Cross the Gramont Bridge to access the Castle, admiring the stunning view of the Pyrenees in the distance.
5. The Castle Quarter is a collection of Medieval and Renaissance buildings re-structured in the 16th, 18th and 19th centuries. Rue du Chateau features a number of private mansions and residences, each with their own story to tell. Visit the House of Sully (Peyre House) and touch the lucky door-knocker, see where Jean de Gassion, Marshal of France was born, wander over to Place des Etats, and then onto one of Pau's oldest streets, Mill Street (Rue du Moulin).
6. Admire more stunning 17th and 18th century architecture while strolling down Rue Joffre until you reach Queen Margaret Square (la Place Reine-Marguerite). This is Pau's oldest square, dating back to the 15th century, and was officially regarded as the edge of the city. It was a grim place known for public executions at the gallows, and was previously referred to as Market Square (Place du Marche).
7. The Hedas Quarter is as old as Pau itself. Initially structured around the stream which serviced the residents' water and washing needs, it also became a popular place for artisans to come and collect the building supplies they needed, including cobbles, sand and gravel. It is recognised as the oldest residential district within Pau's confines, and during its most boisterous years, featured many inns, cabarets and strangely, cow-racing!
8. At number 8 Rue Tran is the Bernadotte Museum. This 18th century Bearnais house is the birthplace of Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, who later became the King of Sweden, Norway and Eastern Pomerania. Born in 1763, Bernadotte started out as a soldier, and then moved up the military ranks to become Brigadier-General for Napoleon's Army, and later Imperial Marshall. He was eventually elected Royal Prince of Sweden in 1810, before taking the throne from King Charles XIII in 1818, and his descendents still reign in Sweden to this day.
9. La Place Gramont is the only 19th century building in Pau to have been completely renovated. In 1779, an engineer by the name of Francois Flamichon put his own fortune into constructing an elliptical-designed building, but died before it was finished. After being completed in 1838, the monument was called Place Gramont, as a gesture to a governor by the name of Gramont who had sustained Flamichon's venture.
10. La Porte Corisande, or Corisande Gate, is named after one of Henri IV's many lovers. It can be found on Rue Lassansaa, a street dedicated to the nanny who looked after Henri IV.
11. The Money Tower (Tour de la Monnaie) is found adjacent to the Renaissance Gardens, and was Bearn's mint, producing coins with the king's head on one side, and a cow on the reverse side. Camp Batailhe is the square neighbouring the tower, and was renowned for many religious trials and public duels, before eventually becoming a popular workshop for craftspeople.
12. "The Three Kingdoms" circuit concludes at Saint-Martin Square, in proximity to the Parliament. Saint Martin is the patron saint of Pau, and inside the magnificent church in honour of his name, a number of impressive paintings can be found.
This twelve stop guide to Pau's historical features is a great way to catch a glimpse into Pau's past, but by no means a bible in terms of touring the city. However, it is a great starting point and will give every tourist the groundwork knowledge to cater towards their own tastes and preferences in relation to a cultural visit of Pau.
An obvious place to start your historical tour of Pau is the local tourism office (Office de Tourisme, 2 Rue Henri IV) where you will find numerous guides and leaflets (in English, Spanish, German, as well as French) outlining suggested walks and routes through the city. The tourism office itself has its own little piece of history. It was initially a hotel, constructed in the 18th century, and was the final resting place of Lord Selkirk of Canada.
"The Three Kingdoms" guide, found within the "History and Heritage" leaflet (Office de Tourisme), is undoubtedly the best way to ascertain Pau's rich past. Starting from Henri IV Street (Rue Henri IV), the guide leads you through an assortment of inspiring locations, including Bernadotte Museum, the Money Tower, and of course, the birthplace of Henri IV, King of France and Navarre - Pau Castle. There are twelve stages detailed within "The Three Kingdoms" guide, geographically assembled in a convenient way for tourists. Here is a summary of what to expect from those twelve areas.
1. The Tourism Office is the first port of call. Grab as many guides and free information as you can before setting out for a great day of history and culture.
2. Rue Henri IV is actually the same street as the Tourism Office, but after walking just a few strides you will see the subtle transformations from 16th, 17th and 18th century architecture. Notice the sculpted pillars and iron-wrought balconies, as well as the terracotta cobbles indicative of a Pyrenees building exterior.
3. The Parliament of Navarre was founded around 1620 after Louis XIII signed the Edict of Union of Bearn and France. The Parliament adopted the former Law Courts as its meeting place; a building originally erected in 1585, re-built after fire damage in 1716, and eventually vacated in 1856 when new premises where found. The original Law Courts have now been renovated and are home to the Pyrenees-Atlantiques General Council.
4. Pau Castle is the centre-piece of Pau's decorated history, being the birthplace of Henri IV, King of France and Navarre. From the Empress's Chambers to the Renaissance Gardens, you will find nine centuries of memories within, and surrounding its walls. The Castle features one of the largest tapestry collections outside of Paris, numerous, exquisite pieces of furniture and the tortoise shell which was used as a cradle for Henri IV. Cross the Gramont Bridge to access the Castle, admiring the stunning view of the Pyrenees in the distance.
5. The Castle Quarter is a collection of Medieval and Renaissance buildings re-structured in the 16th, 18th and 19th centuries. Rue du Chateau features a number of private mansions and residences, each with their own story to tell. Visit the House of Sully (Peyre House) and touch the lucky door-knocker, see where Jean de Gassion, Marshal of France was born, wander over to Place des Etats, and then onto one of Pau's oldest streets, Mill Street (Rue du Moulin).
6. Admire more stunning 17th and 18th century architecture while strolling down Rue Joffre until you reach Queen Margaret Square (la Place Reine-Marguerite). This is Pau's oldest square, dating back to the 15th century, and was officially regarded as the edge of the city. It was a grim place known for public executions at the gallows, and was previously referred to as Market Square (Place du Marche).
7. The Hedas Quarter is as old as Pau itself. Initially structured around the stream which serviced the residents' water and washing needs, it also became a popular place for artisans to come and collect the building supplies they needed, including cobbles, sand and gravel. It is recognised as the oldest residential district within Pau's confines, and during its most boisterous years, featured many inns, cabarets and strangely, cow-racing!
8. At number 8 Rue Tran is the Bernadotte Museum. This 18th century Bearnais house is the birthplace of Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, who later became the King of Sweden, Norway and Eastern Pomerania. Born in 1763, Bernadotte started out as a soldier, and then moved up the military ranks to become Brigadier-General for Napoleon's Army, and later Imperial Marshall. He was eventually elected Royal Prince of Sweden in 1810, before taking the throne from King Charles XIII in 1818, and his descendents still reign in Sweden to this day.
9. La Place Gramont is the only 19th century building in Pau to have been completely renovated. In 1779, an engineer by the name of Francois Flamichon put his own fortune into constructing an elliptical-designed building, but died before it was finished. After being completed in 1838, the monument was called Place Gramont, as a gesture to a governor by the name of Gramont who had sustained Flamichon's venture.
10. La Porte Corisande, or Corisande Gate, is named after one of Henri IV's many lovers. It can be found on Rue Lassansaa, a street dedicated to the nanny who looked after Henri IV.
11. The Money Tower (Tour de la Monnaie) is found adjacent to the Renaissance Gardens, and was Bearn's mint, producing coins with the king's head on one side, and a cow on the reverse side. Camp Batailhe is the square neighbouring the tower, and was renowned for many religious trials and public duels, before eventually becoming a popular workshop for craftspeople.
12. "The Three Kingdoms" circuit concludes at Saint-Martin Square, in proximity to the Parliament. Saint Martin is the patron saint of Pau, and inside the magnificent church in honour of his name, a number of impressive paintings can be found.
This twelve stop guide to Pau's historical features is a great way to catch a glimpse into Pau's past, but by no means a bible in terms of touring the city. However, it is a great starting point and will give every tourist the groundwork knowledge to cater towards their own tastes and preferences in relation to a cultural visit of Pau.
S Kavanagh
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